Culture shock in Vietnam

It might say Bermuda, but our island girl, Carmen Gracey was in another world: Vietnam

Bermudian Carmen Gracey had only heard about Vietnam via war stories. She decided to meet some friends there for a three-week vacation. What she found was an incredibly rich culture and fantastic food that everyone should enjoy. This is one island girl’s postcard from Vietnam:

Friends of mine decided to take a year off and travel the world.  “Come and meet us someplace” they said.  That was all we needed, immediately the maps were out and it was decided – we were going to take 3 weeks off and head to Hong Kong and then Vietnam.  We only spent 3 nights in Hong Kong as we really wanted to focus on Vietnam so as a result  I feel I got less of a feel for it than I did Vietnam so that’s what I’ll write about for you.

Like most Westerners all I had ever heard of Vietnam was the War with America.  It never even crossed my mind as being a vacation destination but after a few Google searches I figured it looked like a place I needed to see and soon.

Carmen is comfy on her long-haul flight

The flights were effortless even though one took 15.5 hours.  With movies, good wine and port we were able to get some shut eye so don’t let that deter you from long haul flights.  After 3 nights in Hong Kong we were on to Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam and then immediately flying up north to Hanoi via Vietnam Airlines (which are amazing by the way).

In all honesty it took me 2 days to get over the culture shock of being in Vietnam.  In retrospect I think it was the “constantness” of everything – people, cars, motorbikes, noises, smells; all foreign, amazing and intense at the same time.

Walking along the streets is in itself part of the adventure as the sidewalks seem to be used for everything but walking – cooking, eating, drinking, selling various textiles, family gatherings,  you name it – but don’t try to walk down them. As a tourist eager to see all of what Vietnam had to offer you are left hugging the small bit of roadside that is used for walking.  Eventually this just seems normal and you don’t even notice it anymore.

The food in Vietnam is fresh and delicious but you have to get past the Westerner’s idea of food safety and handling.  One can never be guaranteed a clean kitchen or a kitchen at all in Vietnam so just go with the flow, eat what looks or sounds good and try everything because guaranteed it’s delicious.  Lucky for us most menus were in English and Vietnamese so we felt comfortable with our choices. Fresh herbs are the key ingredient to most dishes and will be something I’ll miss dearly now that I have returned home.  I wish I could go back tomorrow just to eat all of my new found favorites.

A Vietnamese Market/Carmen Gracey

The Vietnamese people are incredibly kind which is astonishing for a people who seem to have so little by way of material possessions and wealth but I’m guessing deep down they actually have so much more than we do with all of our material, shallow possessions.   Hotel staff, restaurant staff and most people on the street were pleasant to deal with.

Our adventure covered so much ground and we kept our selves really busy so its’ hard to mention everything.

Here are a few highlights: We spent 5 nights in Hanoi, took an over night train to and from Sapa (a northern mountain region covered in terraced rice patties), and then had a boat cruise along Halong Bay.

We then flew to Hue where we spent 3 nights and enjoyed a motorbike tour with Hue Riders, the citadel and some down time in the markets.   The adventure continued to Hoi An which was a personal favorite.  3 magical nights at a 5 start beach resort, custom clothes made at Yaly Couture, market shopping for pearl necklaces, chopsticks and all the essential souveniers.

Then another flight took us back to Hoi Chi Min for more shopping and relaxing before our journey back home to Bermuda.

Vietnam is definitely a place worth visiting.  The mix of old and new is blended perfectly.  The people, food and sights make it truly unique.  It’s a very inexpensive vacation spot once you’ve gotten over the ticket shock of the air fare to get there!

If you can – make this a place to visit soon before it becomes too westernized.

Let me show you to your hostel room

Ho Chi Minh's portrait in the Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) Post Office

“This is not working. It’s still hot in here.”

“Air-conditioning in Vietnam is not like in your country. We are all cool in here, it’s you. We will fix it tomorrow.”

Ten minutes before our exchange and exasperated with me, the receptionist, her friend and a teenage-apparently fix-it-all boy, had followed me upstairs. I had just arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam and was melting. Between the humidity (and yes I still call myself a Bermudian) and the pollution in Ho Chi Minh City I was melting. So I splurged on a single room with air. I hoped it would also help with the wheat-induced sickness I also seemed to be suffering from (I’m allergic).

The three hotel workers each took turns feeling the vent and stood to the side starring at me. I wasn’t going to back down. Damn it I paid $12 for this!

They were not going to listen to me. My receptionist happily explained that: “Air-conditioning in Vietnam is not like in your country. We are all cool in here, it’s you. We will fix it tomorrow.”

I surrendered. With logic like that I settled into my single hostel room complete with a fridge, Cable TV, ensuite bathroom, a fan and broken air-conditioner.

You know what? The next day and eight hours of touring the Cu Chi Tunnels (secret hide-outs of the Viet Cong during the Vietnam war) I returned to an ice-cold room.

What’s your point Robyn? My point is, for $12 that’s pretty good service. Had I been feeling better they would have moved me to another room. Had the air-conditioning worked the first night, for $12 I did pretty well by Western standards for rooms and living conditions.

At the hostel there was: a front desk where I could book my tours, breakfast was included, there was security (i.e. locked front doors after a certain hour) and internet in the lobby….for free.

Last year as I traveled around the world I was hard-pressed to find a hostel without free Wifi. Oh wait I did in Patagonia. But even then the owner had a neighbour who I could go to for free Wifi.

As I traveled the world staying in budget accommodations I found Wifi at my fingertips. Ironically when I went to New York in January and stayed in a hotel that cost me about $100 a night I did not have Wifi. I did not have a fridge. Ok the air-conditioning worked and almost made me an icicle, but I didn’t have breakfast or the lovely receptionist arguing illogical, logic with me. That’s a great perk!

Internet access in Dahab, Egypt!

Perhaps that because Wifi and free Wifi seems to have infiltrated the budget accommodations and become a standard accessory. In the high-end hotels it still struggles. According to hotelchatter.com the worst hotel chain for Wifi? The W hotels. Do you know how much it costs to stay with them? For a weekend in August the cheapest room is $250 in New York. Oh wait you want Wifi? That will be $15 more. Which may not be necessary when you’re on vacation, but it is when you need to work and need to stay connected.

The New York Loft Hostel, on the other hand, starts at $35 a night, includes breakfast and Wifi; is located ten minutes from Union Square and has single rooms. For the same weekend at the Loft Hostel it will cost $250 and not $250 a night.

But, you ask, how do I know it’s a good hostel? Good question. Yes, we have become aware over the years of sites like Trip Advisor and Expedia.com which offer reviews of hotels. Creeping-up alongside these, however have also been sites working in the same capacity for hostels. Sites such as hostelbookers.com, hostelworld.com and hostels.com offer reviews by travelers who stayed in the properties. Making these reviews carry even more weight is the fact that these hostels do not advertise or at least very little. They rely on their reviews on this site and one bad one can really affect them.

And backpackers are ruthless. The difference between a $2 room and a $12 room better be good because that $10 could have meant another week of travel if it had not been wasted. If it was wasted the site will reflect the missing $10.

Not only do these sites provide reviews, they also provide:

1. photos of the hostel,

1. descriptions of the amenities
2. listing of the type of rooms the hostels offer: singles, doubles, dorms, private rooms for four – all with or without ensuite bathroom and
3. reservation services. Yep! Hostels are online and it is possible to use your credit card to reserve a room. Why are you still going to a hotel?

But hotel’s are more comfortable and quiet, you say. I would disagree with you. Like hotels, hostels vary. There are party hostels (and you know who you are) and there are quiet ones. Sometimes it will be a hit and sometimes it will be a miss. That is why the reviews and descriptions on the websites are so important.

Santiago, Chile

And comfort? In Santiago, Chile, for example, I found the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in. I wasn’t alone (well in bed I was). Others in the hostel also made the same observation.

And finally, hostels are everywhere and they cater to all ages and all sizes of the group. I have seen families with infants and I have seen retired-aged travelers all hanging in hostels. The hostels are friendly and social places where friendships are made and you can be as solo as you like or as sociable as you like.

But I would still suggest bringing flip flops if you choose the shared showers. You never do know! But should you be worried about your health? Absolutely, which is why next week’s Rock Fever column will be Dr. Cheryl Peek-Ball, senior medical officer for the Department of Health talks to us about immunizations.