Trading Air-ways for Road-ways

9 06 2010

Phil and Vikki at Lake MacDonald in Glacier National Park

He might be confined to a wheelchair, but Bermudian Phil Cracknell and his wife, Vikki, are not letting it confine them to their 21-square-mile island home.

Instead the couple found the easiest way to see the world – trade-in the airways for the roadways. Which landmass is best for this kind of travel? Where else….North America.

The ambitious duo tackled eight of North America’s National Parks among other stops in six months and combined it into their own book – Views from a Wheelchair.

Soon to also be featured in The Royal Gazette, Vikki (of the Phil and Vikki duo) happily answered a few additional questions for Bermuda Abroad:

Q: Why do you travel? A: I think some people have the wanderlust gene, we certainly do – it’s a very important component to our relationship and a testament to our compatibility; that, and our immense respect and curiosity about nature and the diversity of people and their cultures. I guess we’re just nosy people with too much time on their hands! Actually, with retirement we finally have the opportunity to explore forgotten passions.

Q: You just finished a trip through 8 national parks in America. What prompted this?

A: Air travel for everyone is difficult, but for us, it had become a nightmare; the wheelchair created problems for airport staff and flight crews not to mention the stress and strain it took out on both of us. Turning our sights to North America was a no brainer – it’s a huge land mass with unlimited possibilities for road travel and is accessible. The US has strict ADA requirements (Americans with Disabilities Act) which affords us easy access or better access than other countries.  Choosing the focus of visiting all the 58 National Parks in an RV with a desire to photograph and publish a book of our experiences called Views From A Wheelchair.  Yes, we did complete a trip through 8-National Parks, but also twenty-two other wonderful stops along the way. Including state parks, historical monuments, national recreational sites and wildlife refuges – completed 25k miles spread over 5 western states in about 6-months. Our home-away-from home is a 24 ft ability equipped Dodge Sprinter van, called Dragonslayer.

On the road with the Dragon!

Q: How did you plan your trip and why did you chose to camp?

A: Believe it or not, traveling is hard work and not for the faint of heart, as you yourself must know– but when you add the component of accessibility it becomes another hurdle. Not all hotels have accessible rooms or more importantly, bathrooms. With our camper van we have everything we need to our specifications. Life on the road is also expensive, so it keeps the costs down but the best part of camping, besides a million other explanations; we have become more in-tune with the cycle of wildlife – rising with the first hint of daylight and retiring as the last bird tucks his head in for the night – we are smack in the middle of it and that’s exactly where we want to be.

Planning the trip for 2009 was hit and miss – we were greener than green to life on the road and our destinations were chosen for two reasons, Comfort and comfort. And comfort was priority number 1. As we started the journey in January of ’09 (excitement overruled practicality – don’t plan a trip in the dead of winter) it was damn cold on the west coast so we headed to Arizona where we met a couple from Montana who invited us to visit them in the summer, which we did.  Knowing 3-national parks were in close proximity, Yellowstone, Glacier and the Grand Tetons we headed out and spent 6-weeks tooling around big sky country. On the return trip from Montana we swung into Utah to visit their 5-national parks; Arches, Bryce, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef and Zion.

Q: What were some of the challenges and/or benefits you faced traveling in a wheelchair?

A: Benefits – not sure if there are any benefits when you’re confined to a wheelchair even if ‘Little Blue’ can tool around at 8 MPH and has a rising bar-height seat, it is a wheelchair after all, with outdoor limitations. And trust me, the option of walking versus; wheeling is no contest. For as many trees, bugs, clouds and rocks there are, I wish I could remove my legs and lend them to Phil. Sharing the gift we ‘walking types; take for granted; the many places a wheelchair can’t go: Descending a ravine, hiking a rock strewn path through a river or climbing a hillside, these treasures he can only see in someone else’s photos. Since my legs didn’t come with the removable on/off option, Phil and I will continue to explore what is available and with our combined assets turn can’t into can every day. So I guess there is a benefit – positive thinking.

As for challenges in a wheelchair – the biggest challenge is ignorance. Believe it or not, we have been asked many times if he/you can stand up and transfer into the jeep, boat or bus. Educating the public regarding people with mobility issues is a constant challenge. Also, access – example: The building will have a ramp, but the door into the building has an impassable step.

The most amazing and astonishing challenge; people stumble over Phil and the wheelchair because they didn’t see him, as outrageous as it sounds, if you’re less than 5 ft tall; you’re invisible.

Q: Do you have any suggestions for someone who would also like to do this?

A: Yes, oodles of suggestions – more than this article could accommodate, but the most important is, desire. Where there is a will, there is a way, and that applies to everyone. Also, our book Views From A Wheelchair will help.  The 2009 Expedition publication should be available mid-summer.

Phil and his camera

Q: Where is your next trip?

A: Ah that’s a great question and what a trip we have planned! We head out June 11 for Telluride, Colorado to the 37th Annual Telluride Blues Festival; from there we visit 4-national parks – Black Canyon of the Gunnison, the Great Sand Dunes and Mesa Verde National Parks. In between the parks we will soak in mineral springs, take 2-train rides on historic steam engines, experience the San Luis National Wildlife Refuge and take a 4-wheel jeep tour into the San Juan Mountains. After crisscrossing southwestern Colorado we will drop down into Arizona to witness the splendors of the Grand Canyon.





Top Ten Airlines for Tuesd…ok Wednesday

26 05 2010

Ok I know it’s Wednesday, but it feels like a Tuesday. That’s because for Bermuda it has been a four-day week as we celebrated our 21-square-mile island on Monday. How did I celebrate? Running through pouring rain and wind for 13.1 miles. Why? Not really sure. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

I still managed it in 1 hour 53 minutes and 33 seconds (thank you friend who pointed out the seconds). Anyway, since it feels like a Tuesday to me I saved my ten list for today.

Arriving in Bermuda

So what is it? The Best Airlines! The top ten, according to Skytrax an online airline award site, do not include a single North American carrier.  So who do the include?

I’ll tell you:

1.   Asiana Airlines
2.   Singapore Airlines
3.   Qatar Airways
4.   Cathay Pacific
5.   Air New Zealand
6.   Etihad Airways
7.   Qantas Airways
8.   Emirates
9.   Thai Airways
10.  Malaysia Airlines

I have to agree. Well I have never been on Asiana but I have flown Singapore Airlines and I loved it. The staff were so friendly. I fell asleep as we took off and continued to sleep through the food service.

When I woke I needed water. I ran to the back and the helpful stewardesses handed me a bottle of water. I turned and walked back to my seat.

“Miss, miss”

Oh no. I started chugging my water. They’re not going to take it off me. Wait! What if they want me to pay for it. What am I going to do? I have no money.

“You forgot your special snack.”

Of course I did. I had ordered a gluten-free meal, being celiac and all, but had missed it because of the sleeping factor. How she knew about it is anyone’s guess. I was grateful.

So you ask, what about North America? Well they had their own competition and who came-out on top?

1. Air Canada

2. Continental Airlines

3. Delta Airlines

Anyone agree? Who would you vote as the best airline? Any good experiences?





Have we had enough ash talk?

22 04 2010

I have. So after my rant yesterday Bermudians are finally able to find their way home and those stranded on the Rock are able to flee. Glad to hear things are getting back to normal.

Now that it is getting back to normal my mind is trailing towards where to go next….luckily I have my photos from the past year to keep me company for now. But it won’t last long.

I am working hard to share these with you too. I have figured out my photo page (for now anyway) so check out my latest edition: Malaysia. I would love to hear what you think.

And where should I go next? Somewhere cheap? Somewhere cheerful? What was your latest adventure?

Ahhh looking out the window…where too tackle next? I need your advice and I would love to feature your stories on the website or in my weekly travel column, Rock Fever, with The Royal Gazette.

Email me at robynswanderings@gmail.com or leave your comments below.





Ash, ash go away come back…never

21 04 2010

Iceland’s not making any friends or helping many economies – states or personally.

While British Airways plans to begin flying today (fingers crossed and it is 8.30 a.m. so anything could change) its backlog could mean those stranded in Bermuda (because that’s where I am) could still take a week to leave.

I wish I could be one of those travel writers and travelers who says: “Oh well, chill out and grab a cocktail.” But I can’t. Why? Not because I’m uptight. I am, but that’s not the point. It’s because many people travel on budgets.

Yes not all of us can afford $300 hotel rooms for extra nights. What about food? And transportation? And I’m not just saying Bermuda.

There are people stranded all over the world without family or friends to help them fund their travels or unexpected travels. And airlines, who are losing millions of dollars a day, don’t have to help. It’s not their fault a volcano erupted!

And it’s not, but take for example this Long Island Couple who spent $10,000 to get home. People need to get on with their lives and while I would love to say, stay enjoy Bermuda while you wait to get back to London, what about the people who cannot afford that. This couple was “lucky” because they had an “extra” $10,000 to draw on.

Others are sleeping on metal chairs with built-in armrests, eating cold noodles and trying not to lose their minds. Yes here would be perfect Lonely Planet to tell them where the best food is. Really helpful.

And what about people in serious crisis like those who have surgeries planned or need doctors?

Obviously I don’t have a solution to this crisis and hopefully now the airspace is opening ordinary people without $10,000 can get back to their children, jobs and lives.

Today I just wanted to express some outrage at the situation for those stewing in airports around the world and to bring some reality to travel writers who want these stranded people to “make the most” of their extended trips.

It’s easy to say enjoy your unexpected extended trip when you’re sitting with a coffee in your apartment. Not when what was maybe an extra day becomes and extra week and your bank account reads: $0.





Want to travel? Try your…backyard?

20 04 2010

Mouthing off at Paget Marsh

Yesterday I ran into a friend I had not seen since returning to Bermuda. “Robyn you must have had so much fun?” she said.

“I did, but I’m finding it hard to stay home now.”

“Well you’re going to have to look at home like you did all those amazing places you went to.”

She’s right. Travel is not just about boarding a plane, train, ship, small aircraft carrier, whatever, and leaving home. It’s also about rediscovering what you have at home; seeing it in another light, from another angle and try to get out of your comfort zone (which is so easy to enjoy in Bermuda).

So this is my challenge for me and my Bermuda readers (and well anyone visiting the site from away….hope this gives you some tips for your home town and maybe the photos of our Island will inspire you to visit).

Challenge: get out on our 21-square-miles and visit something you have never been to. Drive through a neighbourhood you have never been in. Go to a restaurant you pass every day and never bother to stop in and try it. Talk to someone you might never have struck-up a conversation with. Walk rather than drive to the supermarket. Volunteer.

While doing these things let your mind rest. Don’t think about running back to work, the house, the TV. Focus on what you are doing and how do you see things differently? Where have you been on the island recently that you had never been or had not been in years? What was it like going there?

And you know what…it might not turn out the way you expect it to, but then travel never does. This weekend I was set to storm into Paget Marsh. The bag was packed, hiking shoes on, canteen at the ready, hydrated and tracking device at hand. Ok maybe not, but I really was looking forward to discovering this nature reserve I kept driving by and had only entered as a child.

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Turns out there is about ten feet of walking space before you come to the end of the entry to the marsh. Luckily I had combined the outing with a catch-up with a friend I hadn’t seen since returning to the Island. After traipsing through farms (I’m sorry I swear we stayed on the edge) to another dead-end we gave up, sat in the parking lot and chatted for two hours.

It was a great afternoon and one I wouldn’t have traded for a trip to Cambodia.