Take me back to…..

“Si. Si. Taxi? Santiago? La Chimba hostel?” I was trying all the Spanish I had.

Is taxi Spanish? Universal I think. Does hostel translate?

Apparently not. I stood there watching his mouth move. Not a clue.

My airport greeter eventually gave-up and I continued wandering. It had taken me three days and a hiccup (read: I fell asleep in front of my gate and missed my flight) to arrive in Chile. Now I couldn’t even get to the hostel!

Take me back to Chile. I know we’ve all survived Hurricane Igor in Bermuda, so why not take a moment and read about something else. Here’s your chance in my Rock Fever column today!

Oh and for anyone with the print version of The Royal Gazette…I am not a six foot Colombian man (see clarified photo below).

Back in Chile and through blurred eyes and panic I eventually spotted an orange and white stand that looked similar to the website taxi ad. Sweet relief when they understood what I was saying!

Last week I left you hanging. I know. You couldn’t sleep. You were desperate to know where I would return from my extended travels around the world. I totally understand.

So this week I will let you return to the land of zzz’s by telling you it would be hands-down: Chile. Yes I went to Bali (not a country, obviously, but an island in Indonesia) and I liked it, but Chile? It stole my heart.

Why? It has everything. Check out my photos for an idea!

Though, to be honest, when I landed in Santiago I didn’t plan to stay for long. Unfortunately this capital, which has suffered an earthquake this year and a country that trapped its miners (ok not intentionally) is overshadowed by it’s neighbour’s capital Buenos Aires. I had been told: “LEAVE SANTIAGO IMMEDIATELY.”

Good thing I didn’t listen. This capital, like the country, is a bit of everything. From old to new to the bohemian Bellavista Neighbourhood to the well-structured and suited business district of El Gulf, Santiago is eclectic. Parks offer runners (ahhh it was a relief to throw the shoes on) a chance to hit their stride and the Andes in the background distract you from the pain.

Art work in Bellavista

But to fill-up following this torture there is nothing better than the food in Santiago or Chile for that matter. Within the Bellavista barrio (i.e. neighbourhood. See my Spanish is already getting better) there are rows upon rows of restaurants and bars just waiting to dish up the best corn-based (hello Celiacs…this is speaking to you) meat-infused dishes while allowing you to wash it down with delicious wine.

And from Santiago vineyards are only a 45 minute drive away through gorgeous countryside. You’re really asking? Yes of course I went! Ha. Silly reader.

Concha y Toro had my name written all over it and its name written all over the wine glass that survived another two months hidden in my backpack. Yes I have it beside me…I mean in a cupboard to prove it. Anyway, this vineyard is one of the largest and best in South America and it’s in Santiago’s backyard!

Of course another hour away and had I been there in the right season I could have strapped-on the skis and headed for the hil…mountains! I know, I know. Nobody thinks about skiing in Chile. Well someone must but a lot don’t because there are some incredible ski resorts only hours from Santiago and you get to go through the Andes. I’m sorry what are you doing going back to Vermont?

But Chile is not just Santiago….though I definitely suggest spending time there. Chile is a long, thing, incredibly diverse landscaped country. It’s as if the world’s interior designer decided to take all the leftovers and shove them along the West Coast of South America. This country boasts the highest desert in the world, a lake district so blue and green it appears painted, glaciers in the south and one of the most southern and stunning national parks, Torres del Paine, in the world (it appears in plenty of ads. You know, Patagonia? The store). Oh and of course, Chile offers access to Easter Island. Not a bunny in sight, but plenty of egg-looking heads.

Not me! Clearly...this is my trekking buddy struggling with his hi-tec gear around Patagonia

I could not afford the flight to Easter Island or to visit both sides of Santiago so (as you all know because you followed me so meticulously, ha) of course I went to Patagonia. I slept next to a glacier. I wandered through true wilderness. I learned how to camp and I went five days without coffee. And I loved it.

The entire visit in Chile was done in the early spring (i.e. few tourists). When I flew to Patagonia I was the only one staying in my hostel. That didn’t seem like the best way to find a hiking buddy for Torres del Paine. I was sad. I was fed-up. No fear. My Chilean hostel owner was there! She coaxed me out of my mood and introduced me to a Colombian boy (staying in a hostel opposite ours) who was also solo. I found my hiking buddy.

She could have ignored me. She could have made me pay my bill and be done. But she didn’t. Because she’s nice…first and foremost, but she’s also Chilean. The people are what topped the food, the landscape and, yes, even the wine to win the place for return for me. Yes, I am sorry Fussell (see quote) I would go back somewhere. I would go back to Chile without a moments thought.

But that’s not where I’m going next. Nope. It’s not quite time to return to South America. My plan? To hunker down in London (cause I’ve got a free place to stay) and find ten cheap trips from this capital city. Of course that’s barring Igor ruining my plans.

And it didn’t! All it did was change my Monday column to Tuesday, our travel tip from The Harbourmaster to Wednesday and my trip to start one day later! I’m leaving on a plane tonight! See from the other side of the Atlantic.