Traveling the unknown

JP gets ready for a massive serve....I'm clearly not impressed. Uncle Billy is the ref.

“I’m sorry…what….no… what…but you said….when? how? who? no. no. no. no. no.”

I didn’t see the hallway. I mean I saw the hallway because I walked down it, but it didn’t register. Nothing registered. It just walked below my feet.

I’ve never clung so hard to my Aunt, then my cousin, my dad, my mom. “Who has called Michelle? Who has called Michael?”

It had all happened so quickly. There was a whirlwind. It pulled us all together and spat our clinging bodies into an empty hospital room.

My uncle. But that’s not right. He’s not my uncle. He was 11 years older than me. He was a big brother. He was on a pedestal.

I devoured his Archie comic books. He taught me how to make sandwich pizzas (it’s not hard: bread, tomato sauce, cheese). Christmas day he played Nintendo with us. He made it through college eating french fries. I swore I wanted to be so cool. The stories of Grateful Dead concerts led to the purchase of my own CD.

He sent me to boarding school with a cigarette-burned Bermuda flag. It hung on my wall challenging me to be as cool. I didn’t manage it.

But I tried. I snuck into New Years parties he was invited to. He didn’t tell my parents. As we got older I saw less of him. The tables turned. when we talked about a night out….I was the one going out. He was going home.

He got married and I missed it. If there is something I regret it is this. I wish I had been there. But I tried to make it up. I babysat for his daughters…my cousins.

JP with his girls

He was 11-years-older than me. He was only 11-years-older than me.

It hits me in the stomach. My doctor always told me I hold my stress there. What is this? Where is my guidebook to tell me where to go? who to turn to? what to say? My aunt looks at me. I look at my cousin. We all look at JP’s wife, my aunt, our family. What are we supposed to do? What just happened?

We don’t know. How do we process? How do we understand?

Emotions run through us. We can’t hold them in. I have never heard my Poppy like this before.

Parents are never supposed to have to do this. He was not supposed to go. JP was 41. He was a husband, father, brother, uncle and Mr. Joe Cool. He was supposed to show us how it’s done. He always had in the past.

I miss him. Where do we go now? I don’t know.

JP wins

Spooky Karma

Fancy a bike ride? That was going to be my post today until somebody stopped paying attention and drove his van into the back of my dad. My dad was riding a motorbike. Who wins? Not my dad. He was in the hospital and we were all scared …less. Luckily my dad was wearing a helmet and came out fairly unscathed.

Is this Bermuda? Are we going to be here soon? (it's Cambodia by the way)

But what the hell!? Being a Bermudian I can truly say I have grown-up on a motorbike. Yep from nursery days on the back of my mom’s bike to hiking to my dad’s office for a lift home after school days – motorbikes have been a way of life. I was just like every 16-year-old desperate for my own wheels….only I got a rental. It was fine. I was in school in the US so it really didn’t make any sense purchasing an expensive ride.

The motorbike ability, though, is a skill. Now wanna-be riders have to take Project Ride, which is great. Do it. You will need it. But what happens when it’s all about focus? What happens when it’s about someone putting down the cell phone, chilling out and paying attention to the X#@$! road for once.

Oh and while I continue this little rant….could people start using their indicators? It’s not that hard. It’s that little button on the left of your bike or a little handle you have to hit also on the left in the car. Just do it.

Because well….hopefully because you want to ride a bike not just on this 21-square-miles and into a grave but along the rice paddies of Thailand and through the dirt paths of Cambodia.

I can do it too!

And the beauty of learning to ride the bike? You get to impress other travelers when you’re in South East Asia.

Asia is more inundated that Bermuda with motorbikes and really it’s the only way around. I managed to loop myself in with a Belgian dude and a British backpacker for a three-day bike ride around the North of Thailand while three girls we had been traveling with took the bus. I’m pretty sure…actually I know the guys were worried about me tagging along. After the first day the Belgian even said: “You know, you’re not so bad at this.”

“Dude I have been driving a motorbike at least 14 years now. I think I got it.”

My travels for three days manage to pale in comparison, however, to Mia Pauwels’ boyfriend. Mia lives in Bermuda and wrote to me in response to my post last week: Tell me where you’ve been or where I should go.

David is biking through the continent of Africa! Yes I said the entire continent. Read about it on his blog. That is of course after he road through North America. That would be my dream….

Anyway, Mia managed to get down to Kenya in February this year and hiked up the mountain. Yeah it’s called Mt. Kenya.

Here’s what she has to say:  “Point Lenana, at just under 5000 meter, is a moderate hike without technical skills required. We took the longest route up for extra time for acclimation. Thank goodness, because the altitude took a toll on my poor little body.

“Most people do the climb/hike in 3 days we did it in 5. I grew up in Belgium at sea level and live now in Bermuda, yep sea level so quite a shock as I had never done such a hike before. I hear you ask why Mount Kenya and not Kilimanjaro? We did consider Kili, but I think it has become a victim of its own popularity: too crowded and quite a bit of trash along the route. My boyfriend was already in Nairobi and was able to chat with locals and received lots of tips. He’s been traveling for about a year now on a BMW bike and was waiting for parts at the time, but that’s another story! He did all the logistics for the trip all I had to do was pack, get my shots and plane ticket and 3 weeks later I set foot on this unknown continent. He ended up booking everything through the Serena hotel. What an amazing bunch of people. The mountain lodge accommodations were great. A bit of pampering before roughing it. Well, we roughed it (sleeping in tents, wet wipes wash, etc.) the luxurious way so to speak as we had plenty of porters, guide and cook. So no dry freeze meals, but a fresh prepared meal every time! Even though I didn’t have a big appetite (as you know one of the effects of high altitude) it was very much appreciated.”

David and Mia

These daring duo also managed a safari! I definitely need to attack this continent.  Anyone else been to Kenya? Any other tales….Let’s hear it! And while you’re at it…stay safe, slow down and PAY ATTENTION to the ROAD!

Random Travel Talk

Ok so it’s Tuesday and well I’ve just been scrolling through random posts on the New York Times to see what I could come-up with for a post. Maybe not the most “professional way to do it” but this is a blog. So….I get to do what I want.

Anyway…thought this was interesting. Fancy a yoga session for $6,000. Well these New Yorkers do! In the Turks and Caicos anyway. Maybe something for Bermuda to think about??

Yoga around the world just kinda piggybacks off what I wrote Sunday about travel and exercise. I have to give it this. I used to hate Yoga. I find it very hard to still my mind and calm down when I do the regular yoga.

But in Buenos Aires I had a revelation: Bikram Yoga. Or Yoga for sadists who like to be in a 100 degree heat room while also stretching and pulling and listening to some random guy tell you to keep breathing.

You know what? It did calm my head and I was able to do it! And I loved it. While I did not travel to Buenos Aires for the yoga specifically it was worth experiencing it. I also managed to pick up some friends for sushi too!

Buenos Aires

On a second and more random note. How many Bermudians live overseas? I have no idea. How many Americans? 5.2 million. And guess what? They are sick of taxation without representation. I know random. But I thought this was interesting because 1. it probably is of concern to those Americans living in Bermuda and 2. it shows how many Americans are actually overseas. And I’m sure that doesn’t count the ones who travel.

Which leads me to the next installment…maybe….cross country in the US? Just a thought and a possibility for the next trip. I’m trying to plan it now!

Rock Fever leads to East London

Biking it to Brick Lane in East London

It’s week three of my travel column in The Royal Gazette and I hope it worked. How to see London in a different way. Or perhaps an area that isn’t necessarily the first area one would think of when visiting the city.

Enjoying all that East London has to offer

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By Robyn Skinner

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Tower Bridge of London: Gateway to East London

An interesting looking building in Wapping, East London

Waves lapping, birds chirping, the smell of spring flowers wafts over the breeze and boats float by as I sit on a bench enjoying the sun hit my face as I read The Times. Yes, I said The Times….London that is.

Yep, that typically-depicted smog-filled (and recently volcanic ash-strewn city) I managed to find an oasis from “Mind the Gap” and taxis (even the pink ones) that threaten to run you down. That’s because last week I was lucky enough to find myself back in the “smoke” (frequent flyer miles!) and while there I decided I was going to find something 1.new and 2. cheap to do in this well-visited town.

Sure there is always the multitude of plays and musicals that fill the theatres and plenty of new restaurants to try in this capital city, but why not venture away from the West. For one: the West will eat your pounds (and not the ones from hips) fast enough to send you running for Bermuda. For two: the East provides both a cultural and currency break.

To start my adventure (and yours if you so choose) I headed for the Tower of London (you know, right next to the bridge). I have been here before so I didn’t bother entering again, but if you haven’t been in the Tower, well… what are you waiting for. First ensure the ravens are there though. If they ever leave….well the kids nursery rhyme will come true or so they say.

Once you’ve lusted over the crown jewels and safely kept your head, continue down to St. Katherine’s Docks. These are on the East (of course) side of the Tower and contain, on a Friday, a feast of foods from everywhere in the world for a fraction of the price of the multitude of restaurants here.

Try Peruvian, Chinese, or Thai food while watching the oversized yachts and houseboats bob in the docks. Of course if the weather is not outstanding (because of course London is known for its great weather) then there is the Dickinson Pub to escape to for good hearty food or a naughty beer.

But don’t get stuck there. After browsing the food (and of course I had to hit the fudge tent and the second-hand book stand), it is time to walk it off. The beauty of Londoners is that they are fastidious about sign-posting everything, so figuring out where you are going is pretty simple.

From St. Katherine’s Docks head for the signs indicating a Thames Walk that will lead you (if you have it in you) down to Canary Wharf (I suggest making it down there). I did this walk in about an hour and a half with stops along the way for photos, and catching the news while lounging on the benches.

But I get ahead of myself. The first area of East London you’re going to hit is called Wapping (no, not Woppened our Bermuda favourite). This area used to have some 36 taverns along the High Street for sailors and other frequent quests. Luckily a few have survived so those who need a top-up after St. Katherine’s docks or simply a chance to put you feet up, pull into one along the water and enjoy the boat traffic.

For those less keen on the pub and more on the photography these old, red, brown bricked Wharfs-turned luxury homes (check out the BMWs parked outside) the architecture will not let you down. Keep clicking as the High Street will turn into Narrow Street and the Limehouse Basin where barges access canals and waterways that can take them up to Manchester.

Once you get beyond here, those with children can enjoy the playgrounds and those without can enjoy the benches that line the waterside. Just be careful of the runners who WILL take you down.

Side note: if you do run this is a great way to “get out” of the city.

Shh…is that water lapping? Yep you’re right. This area really struck me because while Piccadilly Circus provides life it will also provide you with a headache. Instead here is calm especially for those living in London without the means or the time to escape the chaos.

Fully rested? Follow the flashing light (on top of Canary Wharf) into the dungeons of corporate London (or at least that is how it felt taking the escalator in). If you’re not quite prepared for this stark reminder of corporate London there are cafes and restaurants to re-hydrate and re-fuel on the wharf-side.

From here jump on the DLR (Docklands Light Railway) just don’t forget to debit your Oyster Card (a handy re-usable card that costs three pounds but let’s you just top-up to travel and will provide discounts) if you have one, and head to Stratford.

Well that is if you are a Olympic nut and you want a glimpse of where they are building the 2012 Village. I am, so I did. Cranes and construction workers outnumber everything else as this area will also be home to the Westfield Mall’s (you know the largest mall in Europe built in Hampstead) sister.

After indulging in envisioning world class athletes swinging from the lamp posts jump on the Central Line Tube to Liverpool (the street not city). Here you can hob-knob with more of the city folk before heading to Old Spitalfields market.

Unfortunately now these city folk follow you there. That’s because what used to be a fantastically dingy, artist infused and culture rich courtyard had sold itself to chain restaurants with slightly less room for crafts and artists. Some of the original market culture still exists, though, so don’t give it a complete miss.

The best is yet to come (in my humble opinion). From Spitalfields it is an easy two minute walk to Brick Lane, which was formally called Whitechapel Lane and gets its name from a brick and tile manufacture in the 15th century. It’s also Monica Ali’s title.

Culturally it is a melting pot. Indian, Pakistani, English, American, and all kinds of culture find their niches here among curry houses, vintage clothing shops and French cafes. Wander along the street before you finally settle on a curry house. Believe me they will be enticing you with free starters, desert, cheap eats and I encourage you to take them! Just don’t forget to pick-up your wine, beer, whatever from the off-licences next door. No liquor at the restaurant but they will open your wine for you.

Bricklane isn’t finished at curry! Next stop is the Vibe Bar filled with the trendy artist-type that now call the surroundings home.

By now you’ve got to be tired? Want to think about more? Check out:www.visiteastlondon.com/ for more walk ideas and East London hotspots. Just promise me to think about it? Oh and to visit my website:www.robynswanderings.com. As always blogging everyday.

Next week: Travelling….why it’s important.

I wasn’t able to include many photos so enjoy this slide show I have added to the blog! Also I have updated more of my images to My Photos and will be adding the rest of my postcards from my trip around the world this week.

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Running away from life…..

Cycling through Thailand

At least that’s what many people believe travel is about. I don’t, but that’s me. I think it’s an integral part of life. But even as I travel around the world maintaining my view on life I also had to try and maintain my fitness.

That’s not always easy on the road. And I’m not even a business traveler. That’s a whole other category filled with sandwiches every two minutes on the plane, massive dinners charged on the company and meetings upon meetings. Though who am I to talk about this?

I’m not! But maybe all the masses who are descending on London town today can! It’s that time of year when thousands have raised money for charity and decide to hit London’s streets. What prompts someone to travel for exercise rather than trying to exercise while traveling? Or fitting it in between meetings? I’m not entirely sure not having done it myself. I would imagine it’s about challenging yourself – at least physically – and that’s always a good thing.

But can exercise be another type of travel at home? This morning I managed to fit in the RMS 20 km run along North Shore in a personal best of 1 hour and 41 minutes. Why do a race? Why pay $30 to wake up at 7 a.m. on a Sunday and sweat alongside a hundred others? Because it’s different. Because it provides another outlet in life! And that’s…like I have been saying in previous blogs is what travel and life is about.

Running through Petra, Jordan

Not only do the races and my meager attempts at running give me a catalyst to see more of my Island, but it also helps when I do travel. I remember my grandmother always telling me when she moved to Bermuda tennis was her way to make friends and to fit-in with life here.

When I was on the road, being active just naturally brought friends and travel buddies into my life. Let’s go for a 35 km bike ride! Of course. How about a “mostly flat” death by cycle tour of the Peruvian ruins? But of course. Not only did it combine travel and exercise together, but also helped make friends.

Now as I return to the Island here’s hoping it will have the same path here….one can only hope.

New York New York

Brooklyn...is that you?

New York! Yep I am going to guess pretty much everyone’s heard about this lovely city. You know..the one that never sleeps?
I personally hate that sentiment, so maybe that’s why I like Brooklyn. Yes. You got it. Brooklyn. And Yes it is part of New York.
What about Manhattan you ask? Well yes Manhattan is also part of New York, but luckily this city is not just Manhattan.

There are five boroughs all with their own cultures and identity – Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Staten Island, and the Bronx.
If you really want to see all of them in a weekend – train for the marathon. It takes off in November and winds through these, but I’m afraid unless you’ve got your running shoes visiting all is pretty hard in a weekend.

So that’s why Brooklyn. And my friend asked me to give her tips since I lived here for two years from 2005 to 2007. First tip: bring a stroller, a dog and a NY Times.
Parts of Brooklyn, especially Park Slope and Carroll Gardens, have been overrun by Manhattanites who want to procreate.
The beauty is they also wanted to bring their stores, restaurants and cafes with them so you get great boutiques without the hassle and hustle of Manhattan.
Start at the Brooklyn Bridge. Seriously…you haven’t walked over it? Well walk over it. Yes you can do it…..phew you’re in Brooklyn.
Walk right to the end where you come to a dead-end and have to cross the road either left or right. Go right ahead in the direction of the water. You should get to the Brooklyn ice-cream factory just under the bridge. Get an ice-cream.
Now take those shoes and walk up the hill and along the water until it turns into Colombia Street. Follow this path and enjoy the view of Manhattan without actually having to be IN Manhattan.

Turn up Degraw Street, but if you miss it don’t stress. These streets are all on a grid and are all tree-lined and beautiful so any street will lead you on an adventure and to your destination – Carroll Gardens.

Follow Degraw or your chosen street until it runs into Court Street. Stop.
Go Left Go Right. It’s up to you. Between Court Street and Smith Street which runs parallel and is one block up you will find scores of shops: my favourite is Brooklyn Industries but you have to find your own – and restaurants.
From French cafes on the corner to Cuban food and even a cinema this area is great. But if you’ve got a kid well…even better. There are playgrounds and plenty of kiddie shops to cater to the tots.

But you’re not done. I know. You might think you’re done, but you’re not done.
Find Union Street. Walk away from the water. Keep walking. Keep walking. You’re going to eventually hit the cradle of life of New York City – Park Slope.

I used to live on Berkeley Place right in the heart of it all and I loved it. From here you can continue up to Prospect Park which come with a zoo and running trails for anyone more adventurous. Feeding ducks and birds is also a big plus with the kids as well as the boats that run around the lake.
Take some time to explore this park OR even better…hit Union and 6th Avenue and pick up groceries at the yummy Union Market before hitting the grass…you know that you sit on.

Otherwise if you need a coffee along Union there is the Tea Lounge. I used to spend hours in here soaking up the chilled-out atmosphere even with screaming tots at times. Random chairs just add to the crazy-relaxed interior.

For food you really can’t go wrong here and I can’t suggest one because well…there are too many and isn’t it more fun to wander and find a “special” place for yourself.
I mean I did get you here. Have fun. Relax. Enjoy Brooklyn…it’s not so scary. But if you must return to Manhattan…well get on the Q train on Atlantic Avenue and 7th. It’s only 20 minutes to mid-town.

Have we had enough ash talk?

I have. So after my rant yesterday Bermudians are finally able to find their way home and those stranded on the Rock are able to flee. Glad to hear things are getting back to normal.

Now that it is getting back to normal my mind is trailing towards where to go next….luckily I have my photos from the past year to keep me company for now. But it won’t last long.

I am working hard to share these with you too. I have figured out my photo page (for now anyway) so check out my latest edition: Malaysia. I would love to hear what you think.

And where should I go next? Somewhere cheap? Somewhere cheerful? What was your latest adventure?

Ahhh looking out the window…where too tackle next? I need your advice and I would love to feature your stories on the website or in my weekly travel column, Rock Fever, with The Royal Gazette.

Email me at robynswanderings@gmail.com or leave your comments below.

Ash, ash go away come back…never

Iceland’s not making any friends or helping many economies – states or personally.

While British Airways plans to begin flying today (fingers crossed and it is 8.30 a.m. so anything could change) its backlog could mean those stranded in Bermuda (because that’s where I am) could still take a week to leave.

I wish I could be one of those travel writers and travelers who says: “Oh well, chill out and grab a cocktail.” But I can’t. Why? Not because I’m uptight. I am, but that’s not the point. It’s because many people travel on budgets.

Yes not all of us can afford $300 hotel rooms for extra nights. What about food? And transportation? And I’m not just saying Bermuda.

There are people stranded all over the world without family or friends to help them fund their travels or unexpected travels. And airlines, who are losing millions of dollars a day, don’t have to help. It’s not their fault a volcano erupted!

And it’s not, but take for example this Long Island Couple who spent $10,000 to get home. People need to get on with their lives and while I would love to say, stay enjoy Bermuda while you wait to get back to London, what about the people who cannot afford that. This couple was “lucky” because they had an “extra” $10,000 to draw on.

Others are sleeping on metal chairs with built-in armrests, eating cold noodles and trying not to lose their minds. Yes here would be perfect Lonely Planet to tell them where the best food is. Really helpful.

And what about people in serious crisis like those who have surgeries planned or need doctors?

Obviously I don’t have a solution to this crisis and hopefully now the airspace is opening ordinary people without $10,000 can get back to their children, jobs and lives.

Today I just wanted to express some outrage at the situation for those stewing in airports around the world and to bring some reality to travel writers who want these stranded people to “make the most” of their extended trips.

It’s easy to say enjoy your unexpected extended trip when you’re sitting with a coffee in your apartment. Not when what was maybe an extra day becomes and extra week and your bank account reads: $0.

Want to travel? Try your…backyard?

Mouthing off at Paget Marsh

Yesterday I ran into a friend I had not seen since returning to Bermuda. “Robyn you must have had so much fun?” she said.

“I did, but I’m finding it hard to stay home now.”

“Well you’re going to have to look at home like you did all those amazing places you went to.”

She’s right. Travel is not just about boarding a plane, train, ship, small aircraft carrier, whatever, and leaving home. It’s also about rediscovering what you have at home; seeing it in another light, from another angle and try to get out of your comfort zone (which is so easy to enjoy in Bermuda).

So this is my challenge for me and my Bermuda readers (and well anyone visiting the site from away….hope this gives you some tips for your home town and maybe the photos of our Island will inspire you to visit).

Challenge: get out on our 21-square-miles and visit something you have never been to. Drive through a neighbourhood you have never been in. Go to a restaurant you pass every day and never bother to stop in and try it. Talk to someone you might never have struck-up a conversation with. Walk rather than drive to the supermarket. Volunteer.

While doing these things let your mind rest. Don’t think about running back to work, the house, the TV. Focus on what you are doing and how do you see things differently? Where have you been on the island recently that you had never been or had not been in years? What was it like going there?

And you know what…it might not turn out the way you expect it to, but then travel never does. This weekend I was set to storm into Paget Marsh. The bag was packed, hiking shoes on, canteen at the ready, hydrated and tracking device at hand. Ok maybe not, but I really was looking forward to discovering this nature reserve I kept driving by and had only entered as a child.

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Turns out there is about ten feet of walking space before you come to the end of the entry to the marsh. Luckily I had combined the outing with a catch-up with a friend I hadn’t seen since returning to the Island. After traipsing through farms (I’m sorry I swear we stayed on the edge) to another dead-end we gave up, sat in the parking lot and chatted for two hours.

It was a great afternoon and one I wouldn’t have traded for a trip to Cambodia.

Don’t let a budget limit your travel

Ok today was my second attempt at a Travel Column with The Royal Gazette. It’s not always the easiest subject to talk about: money, but I gave it a go. Obviously everyone has their reasons for traveling or not as the case may be. My first thought was to speak about the questions I received when I got back from my travels.
How could you afford it? How much did it cost you to travel around the world for a year?
I hope I answered those questions here:
But I’m sure for some it’s not just about budget and there may be reasons that cutting miscellaneous costs is not even a possibility.
I want to hear from you. What impedes your travel? Or maybe nothing does and well glad to hear it, but I’m guessing most people wish they could travel for longer and further afield. But that’s it. It’s my guess….so take the poll below and let me know what really does hinder your travel plans.